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Green Lite Windows & Doors

Window types

Single-Hung Windows

A fixed top sash over a sliding bottom sash, the most budget-friendly operable window, common in older Inland Empire tract homes and back-of-house rooms.

Where it fits

Right room, wrong room

Best for

  • Spare bedrooms, hallways and laundry rooms
  • Keeping an existing stucco opening untouched
  • Whole-house replacements on a tight budget
  • Matching the look of an older Riverside tract home

Not ideal for

  • Rooms you cool by opening windows at night
  • West-facing rooms that hold heat past sunset

Before you order

Specs that matter

General code and product facts for this window type, not a quote for your house. The numbers on your job come off the NFRC label and the tape measure.

Ventilating area
About half the window, one sash moves
Glazing, Climate Zone 10
U-factor 0.30 or lower, SHGC 0.23 or lower
Bedroom egress
5.7 sq ft clear, 24 in high, 20 in wide minimum
Egress sill height
44 in or less above the finished floor
Retrofit detail
Weep holes at the sill stay clear of caulk

How it works

Two sashes sit in one frame and only the bottom one moves. You slide it up, it stays where you put it, and the top sash never moves at all. That is the simplest operable window made, which is also why it is usually the least expensive way to replace an opening one for one.

Where it fits an Inland Empire home

Riverside tract homes are full of single-hung windows, most of them original. The frame is narrow and the hardware is simple, so a single-hung unit drops into an existing stucco opening without anyone touching the stucco around it. Put them where a wide view and maximum airflow are not the point: spare bedrooms, hallways, the laundry room, the side of the house nobody looks at.

What to watch for

Ventilation is the trade-off. Only the bottom sash opens, so air comes in at one height. A double-hung window in the same opening can drop the top sash to let hot air out near the ceiling while it draws cooler air in low. In a Climate Zone 10 house, where the evening cools off enough to shut the air conditioning down, that difference is worth thinking about in any room that holds heat after sunset.

If the room is a bedroom, the opening sash has to clear the code minimum for emergency escape, and not every single-hung size does. Get that confirmed at the measurement, not after the window is ordered.

On glazing, a replacement window at a Riverside address has to meet the Climate Zone 10 numbers, a U-factor at or below 0.30 and a solar heat gain coefficient at or below 0.23 on most jobs. In west-facing rooms, aim under those numbers rather than at them.

During a stucco retrofit, keep the weep holes at the bottom of the frame clear of caulk and mortar. They are how any water that gets past the outer seal drains back out.

Find out what your house actually needs

A real measurement, a real number, and a straight answer about what is worth doing first. No obligation.

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